I’m back from what seems like another world. I just spent two weeks on the Amalfi Coast–south of Italy, for those who don’t know where / what that is (a LOT of people didn’t know this)–in Capri (an island), and Positano in celebration of my one year marriage anniversary with my husband. As it happens, traveling to Italy (again) was on my list of resolutions for 2016 and I couldn’t be happier with my decision to do so. Last summer my husband surprised me with an unexpected stop in Lake Como (northern Italy) at the end of our honeymoon and I absolutely fell in love with the country. Something spoke to me in Italy, and I knew I had to return as soon as possible.
My trip to Capri confirms it. Italy is my favorite country in the world. I definitely have a sentimental love for Greece (and it’s still on my top 3 places), but Italy is so incredibly special. I’m not sure if it’s the preservation of the original architecture, the food, the endless sprîtzs, the language, but the culture and entire experience of being in Italy as a whole makes me feel indescribable.
I’ve been pinning photographs of the Amalfi Coast for years and for whatever reason actually traveling to the Amalfi Coast never really occurred to me. It seemed like this distant place that I would dream about forever but never really see in person. I drool over Slim Aarons’ and Grey Malin photos but now I have my own 🙂
Many of you have reached out, letting me know you’re headed to the Amalfi Coast (amazing!!!), and so as promised, I’m sharing my entire trip’s itinerary. There will be posts for the next 2 weeks covering all aspects of my trip (hotels, restaurants, excursions, etc.), so stay tuned. This week is all about Capri, the island of my dreams. Read on for the entire breakdown of my trip to Capri.
CAPRI TRAVEL GUIDE:
-I flew into Naples and took a ferry to Capri. It’s a quick 30-minute ride.
-I spent a total of 5 days in Capri. I had read a bunch of travel guides prior to booking my trip and many people described Capri as a place that a simple day-trip would do. For me, I needed all 5 days. In all honesty, I could have used 1 more day. Having time on the island allowed me to explore leisurely, instead of rushing around trying to fit it all in in 8 hours. Most days cruise ships dock in the morning, making the town a crowded, bustling place that is a little obnoxious to battle. Come afternoon, however, the cruises leave and the town is once again a magical place. Without seeing Capri “empty” you don’t really get a sense of the island.
-I stayed at the Hotel della Piccola Marina, which is a 5 minute walk away from the center of town. Capri as a whole is very small, but I would recommend staying somewhere that is conveniently located to town so you are walking distance from all the shops and restaurants. Overall I loved the hotel. The staff was super helpful, the rooms were spacious and clean, and the location was easy to get to. Some of the higher-end hotels require a serious walk / hike that seems less than ideal for me (with all my luggage).
-There is a beach called Piccola Marina that is just down the hill from the hotel that is very low-key and beautiful. This is also an iconic beach with plenty of photo ops on the way down and once you arrive. Just be prepared for a pretty big walk on the way up. Otherwise you can take a taxi back up.
-My favorite day on Capri was spent on Fontelina. You’ve seen it, it’s the beach at the base of the island with all the blue and white umbrellas. This place was described to me as “heaven on earth” by family friends. Here’s the deal: you must make a reservation. I suggest going for the 2-day res since you’re most likely going to love it. You have the option to walk / hike down to the beach or take a water taxi. I walked down, but had I gone a second time I would have opted for the water taxi. The walk down has spectacular views so I would definitely recommend doing it once.
The restaurant at Fontelina is not the best on the island, but when in Italy there isn’t really bad food. They serve drinks on the beach (like all the beaches) so really there is absolutely nothing to complain about. You have the choice of a mattress or chair (go for mattress), and they can set up an umbrella at any point. The beach faces the Faraglioni Rocks and since there is limited availability on the beach you really feel like you’re on some exclusive beach from The Talented Mr. Ripley. Because, well you kinda are.
-Here are all the restaurants I ate at and DIED for:
- Al Capri don Alfonso: beautiful spot to eat at during the day. The view is unbelievable at this restaurant. It’s bright and airy, and the food is to die. I’m not going to list all the food I ordered since it will get a little repetitive, but anything with octopus is a MUST.
- Buca di Bacco: cute small restaurant with one little window overlooking the ocean.
- Al Grottino: a very traditional Italian restaurant. Very romantic little candle-lit spot for dinner.
- Il Riccio: kinda bougie but totally worth it. I spent the day on their deck sunbathing then came down into the restaurant for some crisp rosé and fresh seafood.
- Giorgio al Cucciolo: very special / unique experience. This restaurant is located in Anacapri, the top of the island, and requires special transportation. When you make a reservation they send a driver to pick you up, as the restaurant is located in a very very confusing place. Upon arriving you are stunned by the panoramic views and gorgeous sunset. The food and live music is just heavenly.
- De Paolino: BEST. PLACE. ON. EARTH. This is a lemon orchard turned restaurant. Paul and I ate here for our anniversary dinner so we dressed up and embraced the celebration. This place in unreal–the smell of the lemons everywhere was incredible. They serve a lemoncello spritz (a MUST), and there are a couple things you must order: the Bomba and the lemon raviolo.
- Buonocore: best gelato I’ve ever had. Hands down. They make fresh cones on the spot so the entire road smells like a bakery, and you will find yourself unable to resist a gelato each time you pass it.
-The Quisisana Hotel is a gorgeous spot to grab a drink during the day. The traditional Italian decor and architecture is breathtaking and you get to people watch all the super wealthy sunbathe in the beautiful pool. There is also a “Reading Room” I stumbled upon while checking out the hotel that is worth a quick stop-in.
–Cathaleia is the sweet little boutique I got my handmade pom-pom sandals from. I was tempted to pick up some of their scarves and clutches too but Paul was with me so I had to “behave” myself.
-A reader had suggested using Gianni’s Boats (thank you!!) to tour the island from sea and I highly recommend doing the same. Paul and I love nothing more than being on a boat sipping champagne and sunbathing so this was a pretty magical day for us. We did a private tour so our driver just kind of did whatever we wanted for the day. The water was considered “rough” the day we went out so we didn’t get to go into the Blue Grotto, but honestly I get so claustrophobic that I was secretly really happy about it. We did go through the Faraglioni Rocks though so I don’t feel altogether shorted.
-If I had one more day on Capri I would have gone to Faro beach, which is right by their lighthouse. It’s supposedly a more local beach with rocks that you can jump off of. I’m bummed to have missed this but I’m very pleased with everything else I did so I can’t complain.